Page 10-Commercial Pattern

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2.2.4 Commercial Pattern

These are generally made on tissue paper as it permits compact packing of many pattern pieces in an envelope. Normally, in commercial patterns seam allowances are included for safety purpose (Aldrich 2002, 2004, 2009). It normally comprises all the pattern constructional information such as grain lines, seam lines, cutting lines, darts, centre lines, etc. and common information like name of the pattern piece, pattern size, number of pieces to be on each pattern piece, etc. 2.2.4.1 Merits If the personal measurement is closer to the standard measurement sizes, then a commercial pattern can be procured from the market to draft on our own. It saves time and gives a better fit than a homemade pattern. 2.2.4.2 Demerits Commercial patterns are normally costlier compared to drafted patterns and patterns for various styles of garments are not available. 2.2.5 Steps in Pattern Drafting The sample measurements (7 years old): Chest 24″, waist length 10½″, waist 23″, back width 11″ and sleeve length 5″. 2.2.5.1 Basic Front Bodice and Back Bodice Pattern (Figure 2.5) For children, back and front patterns can be drafted within the same rectangle as it is not necessary to make the front larger than the back.

2.2.4.1 Merits

f the personal measurement is closer to the standard measurement sizes, then a commercial pattern can be procured from the market to draft on our own. It saves time and gives a better fit than a homemade pattern.

2.2.4.2 Demerits Commercial patterns are normally costlier compared to drafted patterns and patterns for various styles of garments are not available.

2.2.5 Steps in Pattern Drafting The sample measurements (7 years old): Chest 24″, waist length 10½″, waist 23″, back width 11″ and sleeve length 5″.

2.2.5.1 Basic Front Bodice and Back Bodice Pattern (Figure 2.5) For children, back and front patterns can be drafted within the same rectangle as it is not necessary to make the front larger than the back.

Basic Front Bodice and Back Bodice Pattern

FIGURE 2.5

Pattern drafting of front and back bodice.

First, the rectangle ABCD has to be constructed with the following measurements:

  • • AB = 1/4 (bust + 5″ ease allowance)
  • • AD = BC = back waist length + 1/2″ • Mark AG = 1/2 back width
  • • AF = 1/12 chest
  • • AH = 1″
  • • AJ = 1/12 chest + 1/4″ = AF + 1/4″ and GK = 1″
  • • Connect points H and F with a bold line, which is referred to as a back neck line
  • • Connect points J and F with a dotted line, which is referred to as a front neck line
  • • Connect points F and K with a straight line, which is referred to as a shoulder seam
  • • Mark BL = 1/4 chest • Draw GO parallel to and equal to BL
  • • Mark KX = 1/3 KO and XY = 1/2″
  • • Connect points K, X, and L with a bold line, which is referred to as the back armscye line
  • • Connect points K, Y, and L with a dotted line, which is referred to as the front armscye line
  • • Mark CM = 1/2″. Connect LM. This is the side seam

For a dart, mark DN = 1/2 DM – 1/2″ and NP = CL −1″. Mark R and S 1/2″ on either side of N and connect RP and SP.